Callejon de Huaylas, Ancash Department, Peru An 8+ hour bus from Lima city, we travel north along the barren coast then turn east, ascend the winding road up the Rio Fortaleza watershed, over the Conacocha pass at 13,500', descending into the Callejon de Huaylas, a wide fertile valley that runs north between the snow capped Cordillera Blanca to the east and the arid Cordillera Negra to the west. The valley slowly descends from about 12,000' at the southern end, to 7,000' at the northern end before the Rio Santa makes its dramatic descent through the rock cleft of the Canon del Pato. This diversity of elevations and the abundance of glacial run-off supports the rich plant life and agriculture of the region; much of it focused on unusual small white peaches, wheat, and tuber crops including the subtropical arracacha root. Inhabited for millennia, archaeological sites date from pre-Chavin up to Incan, including the ancient pilgirmage route to the temples of Chavin de Huantar on the eastern drainage of the Cordillera Blanca. Due to a number of catastrophic landslides in the 1970s that destroyed whole communities and goverment encouraged agricultural development, the traditional culture of the region is a bit more watered down than what one sees in southern Peru; none of the rich weaving traditions have survived. We make our temporary base in the largest city of the region– Huaraz, with its stunning views of the Cordillera Blanca. We settle for a longer stay in the quiet town of Caraz in the north end of the valley. From here we make exploratory excursions into the Cordillera Negra and Cordillera Blanca. |
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